Kennel Floors
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Kennel floors are always a difficult issue. Some of the common options are native dirt floor, concrete, gravel, and wire mesh. In my opinion, a native dirt floor, while probably the most common, is not an acceptable option. Dogs can dig out, it gets muddy when wet, is uncomfortable for the dogs, is difficult to clean, and most importantly, it is a health hazard. Concrete works well, but is expensive to pour and is permanent (once you have poured it, you can’t change your mind). Gravel drains well, and certainly toughens a hunting dogs feet, but is not very comfortable for the dog and is difficult to clean (particularly in the winter). As for wire mesh (i.e. Scott’s Dog Supply – above ground kennel), I don’t have any experience and can’t comment.
My solution for the past fifteen plus years is wood. I built panels with 2â€x6†joists and decked with 1’x6†pine. I purchased one side rough and put that side down, since it is about half the cost of finished lumber. I cut all the pieces to size, and then stain all sides with a quality stain. I spaced the planks 3/4″ apart using an extra plank as a guide and screw everything down with deck screws.
I made each panel 5’ wide and spaced the joists 20†on center. When I put four of these together it fit my four Priefert kennels with just enough to room to spare all the way around. I have also built panels 3’ wide with 18†centers, which worked well. I’m sure 24†centers would work, but they have a bit more flex than I like. The wood needs to be stained once a year and will last for many years.
Once built, I put the panels together and place up on cinder blocks. The dogs really like the clean dry surface. The advantages are the cost (I built a 10’x20’ deck in 4 panels for $320), they are easy to clean (a 4†flexible drywall knife and plastic bag works perfectly), they are moveable (I move them to an easterly aspect under large shade trees in the summer, and to a southerly exposure in direct sunlight during the winter. They are lightweight enough that my wife helps me move them easily and doesn’t want to kill me. It gives me satisfaction to look outside and see the dogs lounging on a warm, dry, clean surface.
I enjoyed your web site an at this time I am buidind a kennel run like yours,but it will be 10 x 10.I needed to know what type of stain you recommend so it will not be unhealthy for the dogs.I am using pressure treated wood.Also do you have any plans on dog houses that I can build or recommend.We live in south texas.Thanks Dennis
Thanks for the comment on the website. I hope you find it useful. My thinking with the site is to give potential training clients an idea about my training philosophy and methods, and to give fellow gundog lovers and upland game fanatics some new ideas.
A couple of tips to think about on the flooring:
1.) Make sure your deck is large enough.
Measure the outer dimensions of the kennel and size the floor ~6″ larger all the way around. This will leave you 3″ on each side of overlap. The width on mine worked out just right, leaving about 3″ on each side, but I would have liked the length to be a little longer. Now, both the kennel and the floor are the same length and there is no room for overlap. If I was doing it over, I might go with 12′ lengths and use the extra room for holding dog food, water buckets, etc.
2.) Make the gaps 5/8″ to 3/4″ wide. Base the width on the approximate size of your dogs pad; medium dogs (Brittany size) go with the smaller dimension and larger dogs, go with the larger size.
3.) For stain, I used Messmer’s U.V. Plus (for decks, fences & siding). It seems to be a quality product that holds up well. With the dogs on it daily, I have to re-treat once a year.
4.) If you choose to use treated lumber, make sure it was treated after Jan 2004. Before that time they used arsenic in the treating process, and I have heard of some animals dying after eating (chewing on) treated wood. After 2004, companies have been required to use another process, which is safer.
Cheers,
Chris
Thanks for the comment on the website. I hope you find it useful. My thinking with the site is to give potential training clients an idea about my training philosophy and methods, and to give fellow gundog lovers and upland game fanatics some new ideas.
A couple of tips to think about on the flooring:
1.) Make sure your deck is large enough.
Measure the outer dimensions of the kennel and size the floor ~6″ larger all the way around. This will leave you 3″ on each side of overlap. The width on mine worked out just right, leaving about 3″ on each side, but I would have liked the length to be a little longer. Now, both the kennel and the floor are the same length and there is no room for overlap. If I was doing it over, I might go with 12′ lengths and use the extra room for holding dog food, water buckets, etc.
2.) Make the gaps 5/8″ to 3/4″ wide. Base the width on the approximate size of your dogs pad; medium dogs (Brittany size) go with the smaller dimension and larger dogs, go with the larger size.
3.) For stain, I used Messmer’s U.V. Plus (for decks, fences & siding). It seems to be a quality product that holds up well. With the dogs on it daily, I have to re-treat once a year.
4.) If you choose to use treated lumber, make sure it was treated after Jan 2004. Before that time they used arsenic in the treating process, and I have heard of some animals dying after eating (chewing on) treated wood. After 2004, companies have been required to use another process, which is safer.
Cheers,
Chris
Chris i am getting ready to build me a woood floor like yours. Getting the floor built will not be a problem for me bit i like the panels that your pens are made of.
i live would like to know where i can get it, and how much that it cost…
Tim,
The kennel pannel I use are the Priefert brand Premier Kennel pannels (http://www.priefert.com/). I love these kennel pannels. They are bomb-proof and well worth the money. I bought mine at IFA here in Utah.
Chris
Tim,
The kennel pannel I use are the Priefert brand Premier Kennel pannels (http://www.priefert.com/). I love these kennel pannels. They are bomb-proof and well worth the money. I bought mine at IFA here in Utah.
Chris
I want to build a floor like yours but I have a few questions.
Doesnt the 1×6 flex?
Why did you choose pine?
Its a great idea!
Thank you,
Yellow Labrador owner
Is the 1×6(4″or6″in width).I’m planning on doing mine like yours.
My measurement is 30Ft(L)x 5Ft.(W).If I’m thinking on spaceing my plank at 3/4″ apart, how many pieces will I need and will that be 6ft./8″/or 12 ft. long.
Bert,
Depending on where you live wood may or may not be the best flooring. Here in Utah where it’s arid and we receive 50″/yr) I would probably choose something else.
The 1×6′s are standard lumber dimensions 3/4″ thick by 5 1/2″ wide. You’ll have to figure out what the best length to buy is to minimize cutoff ends. I found a local lumber yard that had one side unfinished and it saved by 40% over fully finished boards. I just turned the unfinished side down.
I found that 3/4″ is a little too wide a spacing for some smaller dogs (e.g. Brittanys). For labs or good sized pointers it should work ok. I used a deck board turned up on end to evenly space them. If you have a smaller dog, go with 1/2″ or 3/8″ spacing.
So that you can move the deck around and clean under it, build it in sections that are easily moveable (between 3 and 5′ wide) Build them at a width that your kennel runs overlap the sections and don’t end on top of a joint. For example, if your runs are 5′ x 10′ build your deck sections 3′ x 12′ so you’ll have good overlap all the way around.
You describe 5′ x 30′. The 30′ length seems longer than need be. The dogs certainly don’t get the exercise they need in the kennel. Use the yard and daily runs for that.
Chris
Is this type of flooring USDA approved?
I having a difficult time finding the 1×6 finish/unfinish plank in Atlanta, Ga. Every Co. I contact carry the finish planks. May you give me the name of the company and tel. # you do business with in your state. Thanks for your insight.