One of the things I work on early in training and continue throughout the training process is walking at heel. It is so nice to have a dog that will reliably walk at heel when you are in the field walking to or from a hunting spot. Similarly, when you want to take the dog out for a walk, or go on a run it is nice to have the dog right beside you keying in on you.

One thing I commonly see, is a dog straining at the end of a leash, pulling for all they are worth and their owner bracing themselves trying to control the dog. If there are two things that commonly make a hunting dog and the hunter’s spouse at odds, it is this lack of leash control and jumping up on people. Luckily, these are things that you can cure in short fairly short order.

In order to train the Heel command, the first step is to use a lead that will ride in the correct place, high on the neck, right behind the ears. A collar is important to have on the dog (see post on March 11, To Collar, Or Not? ), however, as far as heeling the dog, they ride too low. They ride down near the base of the neck where the dog has the most pulling power (think of a yoke for horses or a harness for sled dogs – they are placed for maximum pulling). Place the lead right up behind the ears, high on the neck where you have the most control.

I really like the command lead, also called the Wonder Lead from Rick & Ronnie Smith. It looks like a roper’s piggin string, but has a rubber stopper which you adjust to allow the neck opening to spring open to the right size and no larger. This command lead is sized perfectly to stay in the groove behind the ears and skull and in front of the first vertebral process. Other devices that work well are the choke chain, prong collar, and the pinch collar (a flat and wide leather collar with dull spikes on the inside and a spring open metal core). 

The key is this: think of the leash and collar as a communication device rather than a control device. If you try to simply control the dog by pulling it into position all the time, what you end up with is a constant battle for control (dominance). Also, by allowing the dog to constantly pull, you are inadvertently training the dog that when they are hooked up on a leash, they are supposed to pull. On the contrary, put the lead correctly in position, confidently give the heel command and head out. Keep the lead slack except to pop the lead to communicate to the dog when he is out of position. Early in the training, purposely set the dog up by walking straight for a ways, then when the dog is distracted and starting off on their own tangent, turn 90-degrees and walk away giving the leash a crisp pop again letting the dog know that the are out of position. Establish clear, decisive leadership and the dog will naturally follow.

One of the things I am working on is giving a command once and once only, then following up to ensure that the command is followed.

This is easy to forget and drop back into old habits, and give the command two or three times. Usually you give the command the first time and when they don’t respond, give the command again louder or with more growl in your voice, and even once again. I try to remind myself that this just trains them to come on the third command when you’re frustrated.

One command and then enforce.

I am regularly asked if I use e-collars or electronic training collars in my training program. My emphatic answer is “yes, absolutely!”  I use them for two reasons, first, I am able to give a dog feedback (positive – turning the collar off, or negative – turning the collar on) at the exact instant that it is needed. Dogs ability to chain an action with a consequence is very short (< 2 seconds), and with the collar you can reach them at that exact moment. The second reason is that I can reach them at any distance, whether it is three feet, 50 feet, or 500 yards. 

That said, I use the e-collar very lightly and only as a teaching tool, never as a control. If you are using an electronic collar as a way to control your dog, you’re abusing it. I have heard it sometimes called a dog’s hearing aid. I rank this thinking somewhere near pelting the dog with bird shot at 50 yards to get them under control. A good way to ruin a bird dog, rather than bring out their best.

Two months ago I purchased the Dogtra 202 gold – two dog e-collar system and have been very pleased with it. The collars are very small and light as well as being water proof. They seem to hold a charge for a long time and with the dial setting, they can go from no current gradually to a very strong one. The transmitter is small, hangs nicely on its lanyard around the neck and is quick and straight forward to use. I haven’t yet taken advantage of the page (vibrate) button feature, but suppose it could be useful.

I also have a Tri-tronics sport 50 e-collar that I have used for about five years. I liked this collar and found it easy to use. One thing I like about my new collar over this older one, is that the power settings are infinitely adjustable with the dial, as opposed to only 5 click settings on the older Sport 50 model. I noticed that the new tri-tronics sport series have 10 click settings for a finer range of adjustments. I am sure these new collars are nice, as Tri-troincs products are always quaility. I also liked the idea of being able to marry additional collars to your transmitter in the field. Although, I don’t know how practical this is. I’m not going to let my hunting buddy take the reins on my dog no matter how much I like him, nor is he going to do that for me.

I also have an old Tri-tronics collar (~1990) that you have to change the contact points on the collar to change the intensity level. It was a pretty good collar in its day. The problem is that in changing situations (distractions) you can’t increase the power to fit the need.

One of my training partners purchased the same Dogtra trainer that I have in the one-dog model and has really liked it. Another training partner is getting ready to purchase the DT H2O 1800. I look forward to seeing this collar in action, so I have another one to compare between.

I think most of these collars are comparable. The things I look for are receiver size (small), adequate range (my opinion is that ½ mile is plenty – beyond that and you can’t see your dog to properly know when you should correct and when you shouldn’t), ease of use, range of power settings – especially at the low end, and finally warrantee service.

I went to the Weber Retriever Hunt Test this last weekend and had a great time. The group there was very enjoyable to run with. They were supportive and helpful to each other and made for an all around fun day. It was held at the Harold Crane Waterfowl Management Area on Willard Bay, about 40 miles north of Salt Lake City, UT. 
I have to say, all of the dogs were well behaved and well trained. It was a real pleasure to see the master dogs work.  If you would like to see a few more of my photos from the even, click on the link here to go my flickr photo account.

I’ve written about introducing dogs to water before, but I guess with the beautiful weather we are having I have been thinking this over. We got back from a hard run this moring with all our tongues dragging from the heat.

A great way to introduce puppies to water is to get out and run with them until thir tongues are hanging and their hot. This in and of itself is great physically and mentally both for you and them. Run them on a lead, or if they will follow, let them run along with you. Finish your run with them on lead at a water body deep enough that they can swim. Lead them right out to into the water up to their bellies. Let them drink for a minute, then, before they cool off too much, lead them out deeper until they are swimming. Let this be their reward at the end of a long hot run. They’ll learn to love it and see the water as a great reward. (Summer is almost here!)

The warm weather is coming, time to get your puppy out and introduce her to water. With proper introduction, most dogs will love the water, especially the retrievers and longer coated dogs. There are all sorts of ways to introduce your dog to water, all depending on what type of waterbody you have at hand. The key is to check any aprehension you may have; make crossing or swimming the water seem as a routine thing. I usually try to introduce puppies to water between three and five months, provided the weather is warm enough. Warm weather is important, because you want your dog to have a good experience. I usually just put on the hip boots and wade out into the water and call the dog along. They’ll hesitate at the shoreline, pawing the water, but usually following before too long.

If reluctant, I pick them up, being careful not to give the impression I’m chasing or threatening (just routinely picking them up, as if I were putting them back in the crate as usual). Then, I carry them out and set them in the water where it’s deep enough to get their belly wet. For a timid dog, usually this is enough, just getting wet. If not, next time carry them a bit deeper and then deeper still.

Another way is to use a favorite toy, stick, or retrieving bumper and toss it close enough that they really want it, but just far enough to make them swim. A lot of times, I’ll cross the water and call them and get them to swim across to me. Yet another way is to get out when it is really hot and run the dog for a ways until they are hot and they realize just how good it feels to get all the way in and cool off.

Anyway you do it, make it fun.

I love to swim with the dogs, you just have to watch out for their nails. When they swim, they splay out their toes and their nails are in max scratch mode and will leave nice tracks down your chest, legs or back. As they come close, just gently divert them to the side.  

I am often asked if I think someone should “force fetch” their gun dog as a matter of standard training (even if their particular breed, or individual dog loves to retrieve). My answer is yes. Along with making the retrieve a command, it can do a lot of others things for the dog, like boost their confidence, soften a hard mouth, establish a solid platform for more advanced training, plus it makes for polished, classy field work. Without a doubt, you can take them through the force fetch training and maintain and even strentghten their passion for retrieving.

Above is a photo of a wonderful, big running german shorthaired pointer named Rat during the force fetch training. If a dog is willing to hold this ugly, uncomfortable metal sprinkler, he will hold anything.

This is not something I have given much thought to until someone specifically asked me the question, “is safer to have a collar on your dog or not?” I have always had a collar on my dogs and thought that was just how it should be. So I gave this some serious thought. This person’s argument was that it was safer not to have a collar on the dog, in case the dog was swimming and got a foot up through the collar, or was hunting wide and got the collar caught on a limb or a fence.

Here are my thoughts on the matter. If your dog was a farm dog out in Arthur County, Nebraska he may not need a collar (trust me, this is some empty country – beautiful, but empty). Otherwise, dogs need collars in today’s world. Here are a few reasons why: First, a collar acts as a handle on the dog. Often times you need to get a hold of the dog, when a truck is zipping by, when you encounter a rattlesnake, meet another hunting party with dogs in the field, or any other myriad of other things you encounter. Without a collar, people end up grabbing the dog’s tail, a handful of skin, or other inhumane and less effective methods.

Second, a collar on a dog says that it is someone’s and not a stray. A collar on a dog with a reward tag and phone number is the very very best way to get a lost dog back. When you are on an extended hunting trip in Arizona or South Dakota and your dog turns up missing, the best way to get him back is to have a collar and tag. Microchips help once they hit the shelter, but the family at the farmhouse that finds him can call you directly as soon as they find him.

If your dog can get a leg through their collar, or a limb can fit up through it, the collar is way too loose. You should be just able to get three fingers under the collar. If you are using a e-training collar, it should ride even higher on the neck, right behind the head and to ensure consistent contact with the points, you should just be able to fit one finger under the collar.

In my opinion, the ability to get physical control of the dog and the information provided on the collar in case of a lost dog is well worth the small risk of a dog getting caught up by the collar in a life threatening situation.

The type of dog collar is really a matter of personal choice. I like the looks of a leather collar, but they do not hold up as long as nylon ones. As for durability, the best collars I have found are the plastic coated nylon collars. No matter which collar material I use, I prefer one with a center ring, because of the ease of clipping on a lead. I just ordered six collars from Scott’s Dog Supply and they came with engraved brass nameplates. I was pleased with the quality and their service.

Recently, I was asked by a new pointer puppy owner what he should be working on with his new puppy. My answer may have been a bit of a surprise. I think the most important thing he could do with the puppy is to properly socialize it. I’ll point out here that my focus on gun dogs is in developing well mannered hunting companions. There are two critical phases of canine development. The first is between 4 and 6 weeks old, and the second is between 6 and 12 weeks. During this time it is critical to understand these phases and treat the puppy accordingly.

The first phase is the pack socialization phase. During this period, the puppies begin to venture around and out of the litter box more, their teeth emerge, they start on semi-solid food, and are weaned. During this period, the dam spends less time with the pups and as a consequence, they begin to focus on each other. It is during this period that dogs learn how to relate to other dogs. They begin to establish a hierarchy, and learn proper canine social behavior and communication. Puppies taken from their mother or littermates before 6 weeks often have serious behavior problems as they mature.

The second phase is the human socialization phase. During this phase, the puppy’s focus should be on people and the human environment. Most gun dog puppies should be taken between seven and eight weeks of age. It is critical that the breeder begins the human socialization with the puppies during this stage. The new owner should continue this work. If there is ever a time a dog should not be stuck in kennel in isolation, now is it. This is where the dog’s connection with humans is largely established. We do everything we can to develop hunting companions that are team players and a pleasure to be around.

During this period you should purposely focus on eye contact and facial expressions. Pups are very focused on the face; spend two minutes with a puppy and you will see this. This is where you begin to establish a strong partnership with your dog. You can also begin to work on come, sit and heel with your new puppy, but by far, the most important thing you can do is socialize the puppy. Spend time with the dog, get him into new surroundings and let him experience new situations. Don’t put too much pressure on him, but get him out and about. Kids are excellent at socializing puppies; they fondle, chase, and love them up. Neither seem to be able to get enough, the kids or the puppies.

Here are three keys to dog training: keep training sessions short, focus on one thing at a time, and focus on small steps where you know your dog can be successful.

Keep training sessions short; the key here is to keep them short enough that you have your dogs full attention. Just like you or I, they learn best when you have their full attention. If you have gone 5 minutes and see that they are still with you and excited to learn, keep going, if not, stop.

One way you can stretch out your training sessions is to take a fun break part way through. In an energetic, but deliberate tone, tap your dog on the shoulder and give the “break” command to let them know that you are done with the training and they can have fun for a minute, then do something fun and energetic for one to three minutes. Do something the dog enjoys, not related to the training, but where you know what the dog’s response will be (The idea is that the dog will have fun and let off steam, but will be contained and you won’t have to chase it down or scold it for anything. Stay upbeat.) I will throw some retrieving dummies or tennis balls, run around the house, or some other upbeat activity. This activity seems to clear their head, keep them excited and help them continue with the training.

When you are training, focus on one thing at a time. It is important that you clearly understand what it is that you are trying to train. Decide on what the final product is that you want, break down the steps to get there and focus on one aspect at a time. For example, if you want your dog to come, circle you on the right side and sit at heel when you command “come”, you have to break it down into steps, focusing on one aspect at a time, then chaining them together to get the desired result.  If you are working on having him circle and sit, don’t worry that the dog may not be sitting exactly parallel to you. Polish that after you have some of the other steps down.

Finally, you want to build success upon success in your training. Success promotes learning, while failure promotes more failure. All dogs want to please; I believe it is in their pack nature. If your dog fails at task, back up and shorten the task to ensure that the dog can succeed. Always end your training on a positive note.